Hanoi and I

The place I was born was Hanoi, the day I was born was burning. In a narrow alley, on a narrow street, there was my home...(Hà Nội và Tôi- by Lê Vinh)

Monday, January 02, 2006

Thanh Nien (Youth) Avenue

"Milk flowers stop falling, and you are here close to me in an afternoon after school, on the old Co Ngu street, here we are leisurely walking back..." (Hanoi, the season without rain) (Hoa sữa thôi rơi, em bên tôi một chiều tan lớp, đường Cổ Ngư xưa, chầm chậm bước ta về... - Hà Nội mùa vắng những cơn mưa). There can hardly be any Hanoian who doesn't know about this song. It is, in a way, a peice of the Hanoi's soul. However, where exactly the Co Ngu street is? One might wonder...
Co Ngu Street was roughly built with soil and rocks in 1600s. It was to connect the Yen Phu dyke and Quan Thanh street, and was more or less like a bridge across the old West Lake. Later on, it divided the lake into two different parts, one of which is the West Lake we know of today. The other, which was initially intended for raising fish, is now named Truc Bach with beautiful renovation. Given this description, any Hanoian can easily determine its location, which is the Thanh Nien (Youth) Avenue and cannot be mistaken. But why, and how did it got the name Thanh Nien?
An easy explaination would be: "it was rebuilt by volunteer youth!". Yes, back in 1950s, when we first got our independence back from the French's hands, Hanoians spend days and nights trying to rebuild and clean up the city from the damages. Meanwhile, the volunteer youth was given the sole responsibility of the Co Ngu street. After they finished in 1959, it is said that the great president Ho Chi Minh personally picked the name Thanh Nien in rewarding the youth for their hard work. Since then, the name became official, and its old name existed only in people's memory.
As of today, the Thanh Nien Avenue has become one of the most beautiful streets in Hanoi. At the Quan Thanh's end, there is a small park with the statue of the hero Ly Tu Trong. At the other end, there lies the 20-and-plus-story Sofitel hotel. Along this 1km-long pleasant road, one can find the quiet Quan Thanh temple, the famous Tran Quoc pagoda, and even an isolated island with the Cau Nhi temple, which was built in the Ly's dynasty about 1000 years ago. In the afternoon, its North East location makes a perfect place to watch the sunset. Besides, with all its lovely features, the avenue is also popularly called "The Love Highway", which is the destination for hundreds of couples to enjoy their time together. Undoubtedly, it is the most romantic place in Hanoi.
As for me, I never have to think twice before taking someone there. One of my best time was about three years ago, when I spent time with my sister along this road. Our first stop was the High Land Cafe, which is a small coffee shop floating on the water. As the whole shop easily went up and down with the wave, the gentle wind blew through our hair,
giving us the relaxing feeling of Hanoi's night. The cool air from the water pulled us closer to each other, as we talked for hours. Around 11pm, the shop was a bit empty. We decided to take a little walk along the road. There were millions stars in the sky, few couples here and there whispering to each other; and there was my sister walking next to me. For a moment, I thought to myself that life wouldn't get any better than that. And it can't!
Come back there one day, I will find that moment again...
-nxh

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